Squashed into the front row at Milan Fashion Week, my seat mate was staring open-mouthed at the woman opposite. “Is she wearing… tights?” she asked incredulously. It was a mild autumn day, so tights weren’t necessary for warmth, but the shiny, skin-toned hosiery sparked unreasonable ire. Just a few seasons ago, it seemed that no fashionable woman would deign to be seen in tights outside the depths of winter – and the hardiest members of the New York style set were committed to going bare-legged year round.
Happily, tights have had a makeover and are no longer seen as such an affront to fashionability, although many women remain scarred by recollections of itchy school tights or slowly descending Nora Batty styles.
“Tights are the bane of every woman’s life,” believes Victoria Genevieve, of Victoria Genevieve Styling, “but they are a necessity for layering purposes.” With a little trial and error, it’s possible to find that comfortable tights that don’t fall down do exist. Swedish Stockings, Wolford and M&S all come fashion-editor approved.
On autumn catwalks, designers rediscovered the power of hosiery. This season, Gucci replaced trousers with black lace-patterned tights, as did Bora Aksu, who styled them more practically under dresses. Ralph Lauren opted for heavy denier opaque tights in rich chocolate-brown, while Valentino included more black lace and a sheer mauve version.
For such a relatively affordable accessory, tights offer huge styling power. “What I love most about tights is how transformative they can be,” says stylist Aimée Croysdill. “They’re an accessible styling tool and you don’t need to buy a whole new outfit to make something suddenly feel elevated or effortless.”
50 denier tights, £40, Wolford
But when, exactly, should you don your tights? It’s an unwritten fashion rule that tights are unnecessary between April 1 and September 30, although rules are meant to be broken. “Tights are a staple all year round for our customers, but we see the denier and fabrications change through the seasons,” reveals Lizzi Amboule, accessories buying manager at John Lewis. “We sell more sheer styles throughout summer. Then, as the temperature drops, we see a rise in opaque and wool styles.”
Instead of waiting for Bonfire Night to slip into tights, simply wear them whenever you want to wear a dress or skirt, but would feel too chilly with bare legs. For some, that might mean today. Other, hardier, souls may not feel the need until there’s snow on the ground. It’s really not that deep.
10 denier navy tights, £10, Marks & Spencer
Although, before we slide into colder weather, autumn does provide an opportune moment to audit your existing tights. “Now is the perfect time to go into your tights drawer and throw out any pairs that have holes, are worn out or have lost their elasticity,” says Genevieve. “It’s amazing how many people keep hold of old tights and just think, ‘that’ll do’.”
If you are left with an empty drawer and full recycling bag, what are the styles you should consider to fill the gaps? Before you begin your search, a word of warning… Once the default option for creating a streamlined silhouette under dresses, black opaque tights are waning in popularity and fashionability.
Stripe tights, £32, Swedish Stockings
Amboule admits that black opaque tights are still popular with John Lewis customers: “They’re a classic that people buy year after year… [but] we’re seeing a move to slightly more sheer styles for a contemporary look.” Instead of an 80 denier, try a 20. Rather than black, Amboule recommends chocolate-brown. “It is a hero hue for autumn and… this will also translate into tights. Brown is softer than black, and can sometimes be more flattering.” Navy also offers a chic alternative if you wish to dip your toe into colour.
However, experimenting beyond darker shades can lead into tricky territory. Colourful tights often trigger memories of eccentric art teachers who always teamed their tights with matching beads and bangles. Is it possible to make them look cool, rather than quirky? At London Fashion Week, pale blue and red were the choice for the street-style set although Genevieve warns: “You have to be quite a bold character to carry off colourful tights.” Courage is the only accessory required.
Those searching for a fail-safe option would be advised to check out Croysdill’s collaboration with tights brand Heist, which comes in an easy-to-wear palette of black and white. These monochrome tones have been reimagined in a mix of texture and pattern, such as lace and zebra, to bring a modern twist to the wardrobe staple.
The Thirty Five tights, £35, Heist x Aimee Croysdill
And if you’re still wary about wearing tights, the perfect trans-seasonal option is the stirrup tight, which exposes the foot yet keeps your legs covered. Croysdill enthuses: “These are slim on the ankle and create a continuous line that elongates the leg.” Who wouldn’t wish for that?