I love my cast-iron pans. On a gloomy day in my tiny urban kitchen, nothing has me dreaming of a rural idyll quite like my black skillets or orange Le Creuset casseroles. I lug them onto the hob at any opportunity, whether to sear steaks or coax stews to a slow bubble. Somehow, the food always tastes better when cooked in cast iron.
It’s comforting to use equipment that has been made in much the same way for centuries, if not millennia. These days (well, since the late 19th century), many cast-iron pans come with an enamel coating, made famous by Le Creuset. This has made looking after them much simpler, as they’re far easier to clean. Yet many of us still opt for the classic, uncoated designs, caring for them diligently, seasoning and building up that all-important patina that allows for natural non-stick cooking.
There’s no denying cast-iron pans require more effort than easy-to-wipe non-stick or bang-in-the-dishwasher stainless steel. But, treated well, they’ll last for decades – if not longer.
How to season your cast-iron pan
A new cast-iron pan is a beautiful thing. If it’s a shiny, enamelled number, you’re good to go. Many non-enamelled numbers also come seasoned, in which case you can also start cooking right away.
If you’ve bought unseasoned cast iron, the kind of non-glossy vessel that looks as if it were forged in the darkest depths of Mordor, you’ll have to create your own non-stick surface. The process to do so, known as seasoning, can take a bit of time, but it’s not too difficult.
The purpose of seasoning, notes Kristin Lohse, a buyer at the online cookware and ingredient purveyor Sous Chef, is to create a patina – a natural non-stick surface. This builds up over time, but a couple of rounds of seasoning before you start cooking helps the process along. Most unseasoned pans come with instructions, but a general guide is to apply a thin layer of oil. Flaxseed is ideal, and rapeseed is best from the common cooking oils – just don’t use olive oil, an expensive choice whose low smoking point can also make it burn. Lohse recommends muslin to apply the oil rather than paper towels, which can leave flecks on the pan; I’ve also found paper coffee filters to be effective. Coat the inner surface with oil as thinly as possible, and then put the pan in the oven and turn the temperature up as high as it will go. Heat for 40 minutes to an hour, and then turn the heat off and leave the pan to cool while still in the oven. At least two rounds of seasoning are recommended.
If your pan has a wood or silicone handle – and is therefore not oven-safe – remove it and replace after you’ve finished. If you can’t remove the handle, you can place your oiled pan on the hob over a high heat until it starts to smoke, and then turn it off and leave to cool.
How to clean your cast-iron pans
For Neil Currie, founder of Netherton Foundry (which makes spun-iron cookware, similar to cast iron but lighter), the most important thing is to avoid the dishwasher. “This tends to remove seasoning rapidly,” he says. “The only time a dishwasher can be useful is if you know you’re going to re-season the pan, then you can blast everything off.”
The best approach, however, especially once the pan’s patina is well developed, is to simply wipe off any grime with hot water and a sponge. It’s a myth that detergent should be avoided. A little washing-up liquid is fine – “it won’t kill it”, says Currie. For more stubborn food clinging to the pan you can use a green scourer; avoid metal ones, which will remove the patina.
Lohse warns against soaking cast-iron pans, unless enamelled, as this can lead to rusting. She suggests cleaning the pan while still hot and recommends pouring a bit of water in it, heating it on the hob and giving it a scrub. Whether you clean your pan on the hob or not, the most important thing is that it’s fully dry once you’ve finished.
Once your pan has built up its patina, it shouldn’t need extra layers of oil – although once in a while won’t harm it. “It’s a bit of an old story, probably from the days when people used to live in damp, cold houses,” says Currie of constant oiling, adding that applying oil too often in fact softens the seasoning.
How to store cast-iron pans
Currie says preventing dampness is key to avoiding rust. Hang the pans on hooks, if possible, to prevent water from other pans dripping onto them. No hooks? No problem. In a cupboard, just avoid putting lids on top of the pans, as they can encourage dampness. Lohse keeps hers in a drawer but ensures they’re dry before storing them, placing paper towels between the pans for extra protection.
What to cook in cast-iron pans
Cast-iron pans are highly versatile. If treated well, they have a chemical-free non-stick surface and excellent heat retention. “There’s nothing you can’t cook in them,” says Currie, who uses his for scrambled eggs, a dish known to be a bit sticky.
Cast iron is excellent for searing meat and can withstand temperatures far higher than your domestic oven will reach, including directly over a fire. They are unrivalled for cooking steaks, as they can get hotter than most non-stick frying pans, and they are great for stews that require browning before slow cooking. A cast-iron Dutch oven is ideal for baking bread, and keeping the tight-fitting lid on best reproduces the effects of a professional, steam-injected oven.
Cast iron does take time to heat, but it retains that heat incredibly well. Lohse recommends building up the heat rather than going full blast and then turning it down. If frying fish, don’t try to speed things up with the biggest flame on the hob. It will burn. Instead, go for a medium heat, giving the pan time to reach that temperature, and then fry. Because of their excellent heat retention, cast-iron pans can also be kept at low temperatures, whether on the hob or in the oven, to make the best stews.
Ingredients to be wary of (though not avoid completely)
Acidic foods can corrode the patina, so if your pan is new and not well seasoned, any dish that’s heavy on tomatoes or alcohol, for instance, can soften it. Once that patina has built up, a slow-cooked dish with some acid in it shouldn’t be a problem, nor should squeezing lemon onto frying fish. Note that as they’re porous, cast-iron pans can retain flavour. For many this is part of the charm, leading to tastier food, but if you’re cooking something pungent like mackerel or spices, your next meal may contain unexpected – and potentially undesirable – flavour notes.
How to bring a rusty cast-iron pan back from the dead
There are several ways to scrub off rust: a paste of baking soda and water; lemon juice; white vinegar. But the best method, at least according to Lohse, is also the most charmingly old-school: salt and potatoes. Heat your pan up a little before removing from the hob. Add some rock salt (not table salt) and use the cut side of a halved potato to scrub the salt into the pan, creating a natural abrasive paste that removes the rust. Depending on how rusty your pan is, it may require significant elbow grease. Rinse the pan to remove the salt, dry thoroughly and heat again to remove any moisture. You’ll need to season it again, following the same method as when you first used the pan.
Recipes
Skillet focaccia with artichoke dip
This bread, cooked in a cast-iron frying pan, is easy to make and guaranteed to impress with its proudly dramatic, glistening, crackled crust and dark undulating finish.
Saffron braised potatoes with sherry, onions and chorizo
This dish pairs beautifully with roast chicken, lamb or fish but is equally at home topped with a fried egg. Saffron lends it a rich, golden hue and a subtle depth of flavour.
Classic sourdough
Set aside a weekend to master the art of sourdough. It’s wonderful with blue cheese and rocket or simply slathered with butter and marmalade.
Sausage, pork belly and bean cassoulet
A hearty one-pot such as a cassoulet is a real winner with everyone, and this version is finished with a satisfyingly crunchy breadcrumb topping.
Frying-pan pepperoni pizza
Add your favourite toppings to this simple homemade pizza cooked in cast-iron. It’s easy to make, but be sure to allow time for the proving.